Just One Day

We arrived in Montreal at 4.15pm yesterday and in just 24 hours we have managed to see and experience the highlights of the city.  Of course, this is only our opinion.

Once we had arrived at our accommodation, our first destination was Jean-Talon market which is literally about 100m from where we are staying.  At this time of the year it is bursting with fresh, local fruit and vegetables.

Our plan for today included the basilica, beer and a bus to the park.

We began by catching the subway into one of the city stations where we walked a short distance to the Notre Dame Basilica.  The architecture is more ornate than the one in Quebec.

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The interior is something to behold.

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Like Quebec City, Montreal has an old town area with a distinctly European feel, however, we had decided that it was probably enough to see the historic district in just one of them.  We did walk through part of old Montreal  on our way back to the subway and I felt our decision was justified.

From Mont Royal station we caught a bus to the summit of Mont Royal at an elevation of a little over 200m.  Judging from the number of passengers who were also clutching tourist maps, we were not alone in this endeavour.  The mountain is clearly most spectacular during the autumn months but we enjoyed a pleasant walk along the path to the lookout.

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The view of the city and the St Lawrence River.

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A return bus ride brought us back to the inner suburban area known as ‘The Plateau’.  Like many  inner city suburbs it has undergone somewhat of a rebirth in recent years.  Hidden in an unassuming building is what is regarded as one of Montreal’s top craft breweries, Dieu du Ciel.

The beer ‘menu’ is on wall-mounted  blackboards and there is no shortage of choices.  Most are their own brews with some other specialty beers as well.

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GMan tested a couple of different beers and we shared a vegetarian platter and some nachos.  By the time we left at 3.30pm there was a queue beginning to form outside.  It is clearly a very popular place with locals and tourists alike.

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Here are a couple of views of residences in the area which caught my eye as we walked back to our accommodation.


We enjoyed our brief experience of Montreal.  Our next stop is Ottawa.






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Night Moves

After 3 days of traversing the steps and cobblestoned laneways  of Old Quebec, we had a rest day – at least it was a rest until after 3pm.  This was quite a smart idea since today was a bit warmer and walking during the middle of the day would have been a bit much.  Although the temperature only reached 26C the humidity made it feel like 32C.

Our walk this afternoon was in the opposite direction to the city and away from the hordes of tourists and sightseers.  We wandered along  leafy streets where residents were going about their daily business – picking up kids from daycare, putting out the garbage, skateboarding and arriving home from work.  I enjoyed the normality of it all.

This evening we went back to the walled town as I was hoping to get some more photos as dusk fell.  The Upper Town was still very busy with people packed into the many cafes and restaurants which line the narrow streets.  However, the atmosphere had a much softer feel as the old stone buildings were bathed in the glow of external lighting.

Here are a few of the photos I took.

Some restaurants

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The full moon

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Chateau Frontenac

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The Old Post Office

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Archway and garden

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Stained glass window in Jesuit Chapel

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Tower at the Kent Gate on the city wall

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And one last restaurant on Rue Sainte Jean

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We are off to Montreal tomorrow afternoon on the train so it will be a new city to explore.







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Stepping Out (and Up and Down)

From a strategic military point of view, Quebec is ideally located – on a cliff top overlooking the river.  The old, walled city is clearly divided into the upper and lower town by the cliff and these are joined by various staircases.  These range in height from between 150 and 400 steps.  Of course, there is also the funicular which is essentially a cross between an elevator and a cable car.  The importance of access between the 2 sections of the city is emphasised by the fact that this has been in operation since 1879.

This information board shows the original funicular.

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The current version which we rode yesterday (up, of course).

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Walking around Quebec is certainly not for the faint-hearted as there are plenty of staircases in other parts of the city, too.

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Some of the streets are so steep that the footpaths are steps or have handrails attached to the front of the buildings.

I am really glad we do not have a car here as it was tricky enough negotiating the main roads to drop it off at the car rental company.  A map does not show the elevations and my first futile attempt at navigating led us to the foot of a cliff – the roads did not join up as it appeared on the map!




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Food For Thought

Regardless of whether you are at home or on holidays we all have to eat.  Eating out can be a real highlight of a trip but most of us do not have a budget that runs to dining out for every meal.  So we try to mix it up.

Shopping in unfamiliar supermarkets can be frustrating or a challenge, depending on your point of view.  I try to make it the latter.  If you add in a foreign language that just adds an extra level of complexity.

One not so glorious moment was of my own making.  I decided that I had to try ‘Poutine’ – a French-Canadian delicacy which is essentially chips (fries), cheese curds and gravy.  I chose this small serve at a pub near Petit-Champlain yesterday.

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I did eat it but as far as I am concerned poutine really has no redeeming features.  It has been consigned to the foods which I am unlikely ever to eat again, alongside my experience of a Philly cheesesteak when in Philadelphia.  You can read about that meal here.

The best thing about travelling in the northern hemisphere during late summer is the abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables.  This has been evident even in supermarkets but today we visited the the Old Port Market (Marché du Vieux-Port) and stocked up on fruit (strawberries, blueberries and raspberries) as well as some broccoli and leeks.

As well as fruits and vegetables you can buy bread, cheeses, meat, cakes and other sweets as well as a drop of local wine if you wish.  The market is not huge but it is clean, well laid out and has an excellent range of fresh, local produce.

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Since we have now divested ourselves of the rental car we will be catching the train to our next destination, Montreal, so I wanted to make sure that we are carrying as little food as possible.  I have planned our meals for the next 3 nights with a view to using the ingredients that we have.  The leeks will be teamed with the last of the potatoes from Prince Edward Island to make leek and potato soup.  Half of the broccoli has been added to some leftover roasted vegetable salad and half a can of crushed tomatoes for a vegetarian sauce with pasta.  The remaining broccoli and some carrots will be served with a potato-topped chilli con carne pie.  It is amazing what you can create when you need to.

The best meals that we have eaten out on this trip would definitely be at Antique Taco in Chicago – tacos will never be the same, Cape House restaurant at Cape Enrage for GMan’s birthday and Le Hobbit Bistro on Rue Saint-Jean on our first night here in Quebec.  All have been good in their own way.  DeeDee’s ice-cream at Peggy’s Cove was pretty amazing, too.

I am looking forward to the food options in Montreal as our accommodation is conveniently located in the block next to Jean Talon Market in the area known as Little Italy.


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A Change of Pace

Yesterday we drove along the southern side of the St Lawrence River from Riviere du Loup to Levis where we caught the ferry across to Quebec.

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The ferry provides the best view of the Chateau Frontenac which is perched atop the cliff within the confines of Old Quebec, a UNESCO World Heritage site.  This imposing hotel opened in 1893 and is regarded as the most photographed hotel in the world.

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It has been a quantum leap from the rural areas of the maritime provinces to the bustle of a city.

We are staying in a quiet, residential area, a few narrow streets away from Rue Saint-Jean.  Although this street is several blocks from the walled city and its cobblestone streets, it is no less historic and interesting.

This is the oldest grocery store in North America – it opened in 1871.  We delved in and bought a few goodies.  The interior is absolutely amazing.

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Today we walked to the old walled city and took in some of the sights, along with hundreds of others.  A cruise ship in the harbour must have helped swell the numbers even further.

Part of the steps leading down to Lower Town.

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Some of the crowds on Petit-Champlain.

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Flowers are everywhere.

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An amazing mural – the front of the building really is brick and the bricks on the end are part of the mural.  Even from quite close, it is almost impossible to pick the difference.  I love the detail.

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After taking in the sights, we headed back to the Upper Town where we attended an organ recital in the Cathedral-Basilica of Notre-Dame.

The exterior is not particularly fancy.

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But the interior is a different story entirely.

We are here for 5 nights so there will be plenty more photos to show you in the coming days.


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A Stunning Sunset

We arrived in Riviere du Loup at about 7pm to a fine evening.  In fact, the rain did not persist more than about 50km north of Fredericton.

The one night we are staying here was merely designed to break our journey en route to Quebec City so we had no real expectations.  Our host, Jerome greeted us and suggested that the waterfront park (about 5 minutes drive) was a great place to view the sunset.  He then told us that Lonely Planet rates Riviere du Loup as the second best sunsets in the world after Hawaii.  We decided to take his advice and headed off with a bag of biscuits, some cheese and vegie sticks for a light dinner as we had our main meal at lunch.

The residual cloud ensured some amazing effects and we were not disappointed.  These are shown in sequence and span a period of 35 minutes.  They are just 6 of over 70 shots that I took.  Thank goodness for digital photography.

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I can’t wait to go to Hawaii!

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An Historical Perspective

We spent 2 nights in Fredericton, the capital of New Brunswick with no particular plans in mind.

One of the first priorities was to locate a dentist who could take a look at a tooth which I had chipped a night earlier.  That proved to be relatively simple and with the jagged edge smoothed I could happily continue the holiday and make an appointment with my dentist when we get home.

Officers’ Square seems to be at the heart of the historic precinct in Fredericton and we happened to arrive there a few moments before the scheduled Changing of the Guard enactment which happens each day during July and August.  However, the drizzle decided to turn to rain and there was an announcement that it was cancelled.

There was still time to fire the muskets, though.

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The display boards offer some additional information.

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Unfortunately, it was too wet for much sightseeing so decided on a quiet afternoon.

The next day dawned overcast but fine and we set off for King’s Landing Historical Settlement which is about 20 minutes from Fredericton.  This village showcases life in New Brunswick during the period from about 1780 – 1910 and includes farms, a school and various commercial activites such as the printery, sawmill and the inn.  Seeing the sawmill in action was undoubtedly the highlight of the visit.

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The wheel that drives the sawmill with individually cut wooden cogs.

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The exterior of the mill showing the dam wall and the water wheel.

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Kitchen duties

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And the runaway oxen

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Once again, the drizzle turned into rain so we decided it was time to adjourn to the King’s Head Inn for lunch.

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A quick visit to the cottage by the lake and then it was time to say goodbye to John and Shari with whom we had spent the day.

Thank you for a lovely time and it was great to meet up with you again.




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Back to the USA

Yesterday we travelled from Saint Andrews to Fredericton in New Brunswick by a rather circuitous route.  It is only 130km by the most direct route but we decided to go via 2 islands and another country and arrived 9 hours after leaving Saint Andrews.  But what a fun trip we had.

A short drive to Back Bay to catch the ferry to Deer Island.  There are literally dozens of islands in every bay so you are never far from land.  It was a beautiful day to be out on the water.

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An identical ferry passed us making the trip in the opposite direction.

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We drove the length of Deer Island (about 15 km) to reach out next ferry which would take us to Campobello Island.  This little vessel holds about 20 vehicles and is powered by a tugboat which is attached to the side of the barge – a most interesting concept.  I probably would not have realised how it worked except that I was speaking to an elderly local man while we were waiting in the queue and he alerted me to it.

Here is the view as we started to move away from the dock.

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Then the tug swings out at right angles on the pivot arm.

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And finally, it tucks in at the other end of the barge as we move forwards toward Campobello Island.  The deckhand lashes the tug to the capstan on the barge to keep it in place during the journey.  Fascinating!

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The lure of Campobello Island was that although it is part of Canada, the southern end of the island is Roosevelt Campobello International Park which preserves the house and surrounding landscape of the family summer retreat of Franklin D. Roosevelt and his family.  This area is jointly managed by the US and Canadian Governments.

The visitor centre houses a small theatre where you can view a short film on the life of Franklin D Roosevelt and the influence of his childhood summers on the island.

Then is was off to visit the summer house of Franklin and Eleanor.  There are guides located at intervals throughout the house to complete the story and answer any questions.

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The expansive parkland surrounds contain numerous information boards about Campobello Island as a summer destination during the latter part of the 1800’s until about 1930.

There are also several other houses preserved in the park, including this one which is known as the Hubbard House.  They were neighbours and became friends with the Roosevelt family.

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Whilst the exterior of the house does not look particularly special, the interior is architecturally stunning.

The rooms are perfectly proportioned and finished.  It is impossible to describe the oval picture window.  The photo does not do it justice but it is like nothing I have ever seen before.

By comparison, the Roosevelt home looks barn-like from the outside and despite the 18 bedrooms and 6 bathrooms the interior is relatively utilitarian.

As an added bonus, there is no admission cost at all.

It was then a short hop across the bridge to the USA border at Lubec and a 10km drive to the West Quoddy Lighthouse.  This lighthouse marks the easternmost point of the mainland USA.

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Even as we arrived in the early afternoon the fog was rolling in and the foghorn began to sound.  It is not difficult to imagine the challenges of mariners in years gone by.

We completed the loop by heading north to the international border where we crossed back into Canada and on to Fredericton for the next couple of nights.




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A Quiet Corner

We made our way along the Bay of Fundy to the small town of Saint Andrews in the south-west corner of New Brunswick.  We stayed here for 2 very relaxing nights and did very little apart from walk around the town which is located on the tip of a peninsula and is literally surrounded on 3 sides by water.

Here are some photos of the scenery and the historic buildings.

Pagan Point Nature Reserve

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Algonquin Resort which dates from 1914 in its present form following a fire which destroyed the original built in 1889.

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One of the early mansions

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And a more modest dwelling

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The courthouse

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And the gaol which now house the County Archives but is still open for tours.  We were provided with some fairly gruesome tales when we took a look inside.

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Just to prove we were inside the volunteer guide took this photo.

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A Tale of Two Tides

We are now on the south coast of New Brunswick, overlooking the Bay of Fundy which home to the highest tides in the world.  To gain the best appreciation you really need to see the area at both the high and low tides.  The admission to the park acknowledges this by being valid for 2 consecutive days.

I managed to take these matching shots at several points so that you can see the massive difference.  Each pair of photos is an almost identical shot at low tide (on the left) and high tide (on the right).

The following photos are a sequence I took during the incoming tide when it is rising at its fastest – about halfway between low and high tide.

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21 minutes later the low rocks on the left hand side are submerged.  Notice how brown and discoloured the water has become from the mud being disturbed by the tidal movement.

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Another 19 minutes and water is coming into view on the left hand side of the photo.

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15 minutes later the kayaks are where there was exposed ocean floor less than an hour ago.

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And 14 minutes further on and the water has entered Lovers’ Arch.  It is still an hour until the high tide and the water has about another 3 metres to rise in that time.  The ocean floor in this cove will be completely submerged.

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It was amazing to be able to witness this tidal phenomenon in the Bay of Fundy.



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